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Thread: New Beginnings... Magna-Buff Build

  1. #41

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    2

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    Looks like a fun project. I look forward to seeing more updates and pics.

  2. #42

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

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    I have been holding off on updates cause of lack of pictures, but I will push forward this week with my how-to regardless me thinks...

  3. #43

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

    Default Dash & Brake Pedal Removal

    Time for a game called “find screw/remove screw”.

    I feel the dash needs to be removed to do this conversion. It is less dangerous when maneuvering with a dremel in such a tight space.

    Below you can see a few pages from the manual but honestly I found that just jumping in with removing the obvious screws worked well. Here are the important parts to remove first.

    - A-pillar trims
    - Steering wheel
    - Steering surround controls
    - Instrument cluster and surround
    - Glove box and kick panel
    - Wing nut (above glove box, just reach up and feel for it)
    - Dash/speaker top grill
    - Ash tray
    - Knobs on A/C fascia
    - Fuse panel (drivers side)

    Next go ahead and remove the auto brake pedal and install the new manual brake pedal.
    It’s difficult but laying upside down on the drivers seat with a light nearby you can grab a flathead screwdriver and remove the R clip. Once the clip is removed you can pull the pin out holding the pedal to the brake cylinder and then remove the top bolt holding the pedal to the car.

    As you can see they are identical where they mount to the vehicle.



    Here is a picture of the pipe that goes in the pedal with it’s 2 plastic bushings that prevent pedal slop.



    TN Service Manual Pages...







  4. #44

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

    Default Automatic Transmission Removal

    The gearbox isn’t going anywhere with the driveshafts in place so they have to go first.

    Start by removing the hub castle nuts on the front wheels. To do this you first need to remove the split pin, we used a hammer and pliers. Then with the car still on the ground, grab a long breaker bar and have at it with a good 32mm socket.





    Jack up the car and support it with axle stands.

    Drain the Auto Transmission of its oil.

    Take the front wheels off and detach the shocks from the hubs.

    Next are the outer tie rods.
    Remove their split pins and castle nuts. Put the nut back on upside down leaving it flush with the threads.. then.. Hammer Time!
    Smack that castle nut/tie rod to remove it from the hub itself (best to pre-soak first with WD40 or a diy mix of 50/50 Auto Trans Fluid & Acetone).

    Now that you have all the room your gonna get, remove the wheel side of the driveshafts first from the hub, then pull like mad at the shaft to release it from the transmission and from the car.
    If a sudden jolt does not do the trick, use a ball joint separator, failing that, a large flathead or crowbar with a hammer.

    The relay/interim shaft (Auto shown below) is different from Auto to Manual. The difference I noticed is the manual shaft “once mounted” is further away from the engine than the Auto. You may get away with using washers to space it out if you didn’t have one, but I would not recommend that.



    Just 2 bolts and it’s removed!.. not that simple
    We needed to loosen the bolt attaching the support bracket to the underside of the intake manifold. This bolt is hard to get to, so you will need a bunch of long extensions with a universal joint at the end to reach it.

    Now the driveshafts are out of the way it is time to get that auto box out of my life.

    The starter motor goes first. Two bolts and your good. Pic of my starter removed from its home. Just let it dangle for now



    Next get rid of the auto selector cable and the whole mechanism. Take note of how the Inhibitor Switch works and what position it is in when “Park” is selected as this is the easy “hack” way to ensure the car still starts without the auto box in place later. Here is a pic of mine where I marked the “Park” position for later..



    Auto radiators have an integrated transmission oil cooler which is cool. I look forward to utilizing this somehow but for now the hoses get removed from the box and plugged with bolts & hose clamps then zip tied out of the way. The hose barbs are removed from the Auto box as they will be used on another project!

    The speedo cable can be removed from the gearbox towards the back near the firewall, this simply plugs into the manual box later on. The pulse generators are removed. The rest of the wiring if not important got chopped.. Don’t chop the inhibitor switch wiring cause then your f’d in the a!

    Support the gearbox ready for removal. We removed the large bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Then the bolts holding the drivers side mount to the transmission. Finally the 4 bolts holding that mount to the body of the car, but for the love of god do not drop these! As mentioned in other threads these go into the abyss if dropped in this chassis hole!




    Now she is free to be removed “carefully” by pulling it towards the drivers side of the car..
    ‘wiggle’ ‘wiggle’ “clunk!” and she is out!

    Now I see the true face of disappointing performance... it is time to remove this dripping mess known as a Torque Converter!



    Pic of the front of the Torque Converter.



    Pic of the back of the Torque Converter. Notice the stud which locates itself into the dowel in the crankshaft.



    Here is how you actually remove the Torque Converter from the engine.. Use a spanner and remove the three red bolts.. it’s that simple!



    Remove this plate from the crankshaft (6 bolts).

    Remove the small 10mm bolts holding the sheet metal shielding to the engine and remove the shield.



    So your thinking, f me... how the hell am I getting this dowel out of the crankshaft! The new Manual flywheel isn’t going to fit with it attached and I don’t have specialized pulling tools!... Fear not!

    Step 1.
    Grab a 3/8 inch socket extension. Spray a bit of WD40 in the dowel hole.



    Step 2.
    Grab a rag, chop it, wet it, stick it in the dowel hole and a little bit in the end of your extension.



    Step 3.
    Argue with your friend who thinks this is “never going to work”.

    Step 4.
    Place extension into dowel hole which is pre-packed to the brim with wet rag and then Hammer Time!

    With the fact that water doesn’t compress and the 3/8” extension nearly perfectly seals the hole, the dowel has nowhere to go but out! No damage to any surface too which is a plus!!

    Here is the dowel removed with “the tools your gonna need”!



    Finally it is best to get this out of the way now. Pull back the carpet in the cabin. Disconnect this devil box and remove it from the vehicle!



    Well that’s it for tonight... time for some Z’s

  5. #45

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

    Default Clutch Pedal & Master Cylinder install

    Meet Mr Clutch Pedal
    However, this member needs no introduction as he is the star of this show!




    Gonna need a drill and measuring tools for this one. I found that these Christmas Tree bits are great! We used a hole punch to dint the sheet metal and then drilled our holes to the size we needed with the step drill bits (used a larger one for the big hole) no pilot holes required.



    I used this picture (courtesy of TecoDaN) to eyeball where the holes needed to be cut. I started at the top, then the bottom and lastly the middle. I drilled from the engine bay as after removing the air intake piping and brake booster hose the area was fairly clear.




    It doesn’t look it in this pic but the master cylinder fits nicely. It MUST be said though that from the factory there is a template hole for the top bolt. I would have had a better start had I known that this was here but it’s only on the cabin side... you can see it slightly on the top hole like a half moon on the right side. Use it to get your hole “spot on” as Mitsubishi intended.



    Test fitting to find out how I must tackle the top bolts. As per TecoDaN’s post and accompanying pictures, you can see that the top mount “doesn’t exist” in the auto models.. sigh..



    The late and Great “Magna Buff” had not provided this piece when he gave me the parts for this conversion, so instead in his style, I fab’d up a cheap DIY replacement in the form of a bolt with a couple of nuts and washers



    Mock up where the pedal box is going to be, don’t forget there needs to be a gap to take the place of where the mount “would have been”. This keeps the geometry right and ensure the service manual height adjustments match later.





    I took the drivers wiper off and the trim pieces around it to be able to get access as shown. It really is just philips screws and I used a trim removal tool to lever them up. The concern that I have not addressed yet is water ingress into the cabin from an unsealed bolt hole. I have not had the chance to drill and install the second bolt, so when I do that I will seal it up with something.. welcome to suggestions as I’m currently thinking gasket goo or maybe a fiber washer.





    Finished product is a working clutch pedal in the “correct spot”. Once the second bolt is installed I highly doubt that there will be a noticeable difference between having the factory bracket and the DIY bolts.. time will tell.




    Isn’t it puurty..


  6. #46

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    107

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    Great work, at least you'll have a project to while away the long winter evenings.

  7. #47
    dennystone 12's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
    Location
    International Member
    Posts
    279

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    I agree, great work.
    westport nz E34 535i & E39 540i

  8. #48

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

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    Thanks guys, there is a lot to do for sure.. I hope she will be presentable at the end of the road

  9. #49

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Australian Capital Territory
    Posts
    536

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    Fantastic to see this Buffy Build in progress.
    Ilj5000 and the spirit of Buffy are breathing new life in this old TP.

  10. #50

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    178

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    Thanks AQUAR

    It must be said that he is a constant push to keep going no matter how tough.

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