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Thread: 12 Volt connection points

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    rgoldsmith's Avatar
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    Default 12 Volt connection points

    Hi Folks,
    Sorry for this, I'm absolutely sure it's already been posted somewhere, but I can't find it :
    Where is the bet place to tap into the 12 volt and accessory power supply for some pillar mount gauges?
    Cheers,
    RG

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    DOMO KUN!!!!!!!!!!!! Mecha-wombat's Avatar
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    Just a guess

    Ciggie lighter 12V port ????

    anywere off that should be fine methinks but I have NFI not my thing

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    rgoldsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mecha-wombat View Post
    Just a guess

    Ciggie lighter 12V port ????

    anywere off that should be fine methinks but I have NFI not my thing
    Thanks mate, I was kinda hoping someone could refer me to a junction box for the accessory line under the dash, and maybe a good connection point (unused fuse slot etc. ) in the engine bay. There's got to be dozens of people here who've had this need in the past , surely?

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    Aaww c'mon guys!!.. help me out here. I know I can crawl under the dash with a probe randomly selecting things that come on with the ignition switch, but theres gotta be spare connections in the junction box and for bluetooth , sunroofs etc. that people must know of. Does anyone know if there's a live terminal block behind the blanking plate for the factory bluetooth switch? I want to to hook these up tonight , and can't work out form the grainy pictures in the workshop manual where a "robust" conection point is

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    rgoldsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgoldsmith View Post
    Aaww c'mon guys!!.. help me out here. I know I can crawl under the dash with a probe randomly selecting things that come on with the ignition switch, but theres gotta be spare connections in the junction box and for bluetooth , sunroofs etc. that people must know of. Does anyone know if there's a live terminal block behind the blanking plate for the factory bluetooth switch? I want to to hook these up tonight , and can't work out form the grainy pictures in the workshop manual where a "robust" conection point is
    Well, this is exactly what I ended up having to do! After the deafening silence on this topic.
    Spent an entire evening probing and trying to decipher the junction box electronics which led to a failed attempt at locating a postivley switched headlight circuit (looks like the switch to ground via the ECU or something).
    I gave up and simply wired the gauges into the accessory and constant 12V from the ignition switch. If anybody want to know more, post a question
    Cheers,
    RG

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    DOMO KUN!!!!!!!!!!!! Mecha-wombat's Avatar
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    I think you may have been a pioneer in this one Goldy

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    Your No1 rep maggie3.5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mecha-wombat View Post
    I think you may have been a pioneer in this one Goldy
    yeah..i think that the deafening silence that you refer too,probably is due to the fact ,that perhaps,no one has yet needed to go looking for the sort of power supply that you were after.....the cig lighter is the easy swicthed point but doesnt get you your constant power....

    what i want is a ignition on power on point under the bonnet to run my d.r.l led strips...ive got it hooked into the fuse box but it is on with the acc...??
    ...
    I am sure that any state will struggle to put on an equivalent to what MMX was, it was awesome both in the aspect of events and the social aspect after cruises,
    Maggie's "BitsaMitsi" Magna Sports

    Maggie's 380 GT



  8. #8
    Yes, its a Mitsi! vlad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgoldsmith View Post
    Well, this is exactly what I ended up having to do! After the deafening silence on this topic.
    Spent an entire evening probing and trying to decipher the junction box electronics which led to a failed attempt at locating a postivley switched headlight circuit (looks like the switch to ground via the ECU or something).
    I gave up and simply wired the gauges into the accessory and constant 12V from the ignition switch. If anybody want to know more, post a question
    Cheers,
    RG
    This may be a stupid question, but aren't all mitsubishis negative/ground switched?

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    rgoldsmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maggie3.5 View Post
    yeah..i think that the deafening silence that you refer too,probably is due to the fact ,that perhaps,no one has yet needed to go looking for the sort of power supply that you were after.....the cig lighter is the easy swicthed point but doesnt get you your constant power....

    what i want is a ignition on power on point under the bonnet to run my d.r.l led strips...ive got it hooked into the fuse box but it is on with the acc...??
    Ah .. I see........ I guess I figured with all the modding going on here , there would have been a bit more activity in the electrical system.
    For Future reference :
    If you undo the steering column cover (two bottom screws , and two behind the steering wheel (rotate wheel to get to them)), then you 'll have easy access to the ignition, central locking , headlight and wiper connectors (they are all on the left hand side of the wheel)
    You'll find two connection blocks together , one on top of the other, the lower one on mine is blue and white which distinguishes it from all the rest as the ignition block. There are two wires on this block of interest.

    1. The Accessory power line (Blue with Black stripe)
    2. The Constant 12V power line (Blue with Yellow Stripe - Not the Red one like you would expect of course.....)

    Disconnect this (single push button facing the steering column where you can't see it) and try you ignition , if it doesn't work

    You can either fiddle with the terminal block and work the brass connectors out of the block then crip your wires into the exisitng terminals, or , do what I did , which is to splice ans solder your wires into a stripped section of the factory wires.
    If you are going to do it the second way, remember that this is your ignition and accessory circuit.... do as close to a professional job of splicing them as you can , or you wil lbe sorry later.
    Just in case someone is not familiar with a good way to do this (it's not as hard as it sounds) :
    1. Strip back the outer insulation sheath of the wire bundle, and carefully strip a section of the factory wire about the width of your finger
    2. work a probe or small jewellers screwdriver through the wires and split them into two bundles with a hole in the middle
    3. tin these wires and the wires you want to insert
    4. thread your wires throught the split in the factory wire and then divide the end of your wire (poking out through the other side of the factory wire split into two and wrap it back around the outside and around the factory wire
    5. solder all sides of the join tidily and wrap the individual wires with insulation tape (heat shrink would be better, but involves cutting the factory wire, which I didn't want to do),
    6. re-wrap the outer insulation sheath firmly back down over the bundle

    at this point you've got your Constant Positive and Accesory Positive , you still need a ground which can obviously be any connection point on the chassis. I found a good and easily accessible one on the form of a bolt on the right hand side of the centre console,. Just undo the three screws underneath the bottom dash cover below the steering column ( you will also need to undo the two screws connecting the bonnet latch and remove this) and you'll find the bolt behind this, right beside the console down low.

    I took the three wire and connected them to a new screw down terminal block , so that if I decide to connect something else besides the guages later, I have an easilly accessible connection point.

    Now I'm hunting for a spare TCL or Foglight switch so I can connect the guages to this in the sunroof switch blanking plate on the dash

    BTW, if anybody wants to know how to construct these pillar mount pods, post and I'll write it up.
    Basically I bought a new pillar cover from MMAL spares (only $19 believe it or not) and carefully cut the shape of two individual universal mount Pods into it , got the gauges and pods ultra cheap from crazysales.com.au
    total cost of whole project including guages = $70
    Much riciness ensues.......




    Cheers,
    RG

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    Quote Originally Posted by vlad View Post
    This may be a stupid question, but aren't all mitsubishis negative/ground switched?
    Certainly not all, the Accessory circuit was positively switched. You aren't getting mixed up with whether the car chassis is positive or negative are you , which is a different thing? The chassis is indeed negatively grounded

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